Tanmono means a roll of cloth.
Same patterns dyed the whole cloth like komon, tsumugi, tsukesage and yukata are on sale as tanmono except tomesode, furisode and houmongi.
The way to count tanmono is “Ittan” and it means one kimono needs one tanmono to make.
This time we’ll tell you about tanmono.
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What is tanmono and kari-eba?
Tanmono is a roll of cloth to make a kimono.
The length and the width changes by kimono type.
Normally the width is around 36cm and length is around 12m and it sometimes called ‘Sanjoumono’.
Recently, many of Japanese people’s height and physics are getting bigger, so kimono makers produces larger sized tanmono.
The width for larger women is around 40cm and men’s are around 42cm.
Tanmono is divided into 8 pieces which are 2 sleeves, 2 left and right-hand, 2 gussets, a collar and a replaceable collar part.
To the contrary, tomesode, furisode and houmongi needs an act of sewing temporarily in order to draw designs on the kimono.
The way to sew tanmono
Sewing of kimono has difference between “Awase” and “Hitoe”.
Awase needs a lining.
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The Sewing of Awase
Awase kimono is worn around September to following year’s May.
The way to make awase, we need doura and hakkake as lining. Mainly those linings are used white and beautiful habutae.
Hakkake is a lining called suso-mawashi(for cuffs and hem of a kimono).
We can catch a glimpse of hakkake.
People are enjoying hakkake more stylish way.
Komon and tsumugi kimono’s hakkake is used same color and gradation along with outer cloth of kimono.
Or using opposite color and little patterns hakkake.
The roll of tanmono for doura is on sale around 8.5m and hakkake is around 4m.
The sewing of hitoe kimono
Hitoe has no lining which is worn from July to September.
Yukata and hitoe kimono is made a tanmono.
Transparent hitoe kimono sometimes has sebuse and ishikiate on the back part to reinforce the strength of cloth.
Sewing kari-eba
Unlike komon and yukata, formal kimono like furisode,tomesode and houmongi has a single large pattern.
This type is called eba-moyou and patterns are drawn before sewing cloth.
Eba-moyou’s tanmono is displayed kari-eba sewing.
These tanmono are also need tomo-hakkake(made of the same plain cloth as front).
Sometimes light-color kimono needs gradation hakkake.
An advantage of tanmono and the way to keep clean
Tanmono cuts each of kimono part lineary, so when these parts sew again it becomes a tanmono.
So that we can wash, dye, repair again.
Summary
Lately pret-a-porter kimono and yukata is popular so traditional order system is decreasing.
There are people who make original kimono from tanmono.
Original kimono fits perfect and beautifully.
Tanmono is much cheaper than kimono. Why don’t you try to make special kimono.